Wednesday 22nd July 2009 – Eclipse Day, Yakushima

 I was woken up at 5am with what can only be described as the sound of a torrential downpour beating against the window. After breakfast we boarded the bus to take us to the South of the island to our allocated viewing spot in the town of Onaida.

The rain had abated somewhat when we got there so things did look hopeful. Although we intended to stay on the bus until things got a bit better we were told to get off as the bus couldn’t stay close. So we offloaded and made our way onto the sports field. It was very hot and humid and the drizzly rain wasn’t unpleasant really. The only unpleasant things were the thick black clouds rolling in off the sea and gathering over the mountains. The winds were very strong and the lower layer of cloud was moving very fast. I counted 4 different cloud levels at one time; high, thick rey blanket, slightly lower and darker cumulus looking clouds, then 2 layers of dark, grey, fast moving rain clouds.

Eclipse Observing Field, Onaida

By about 8:30am the rain started to get heavier and the locals who had erected 2 marquee / gazebo things, one for the first aid tent and one for selling refreshments, invited us to shelter under them.

There were 2 groups from explore and a variety of other visitors.

The rain kept starting and stopping but 1^st contact came at 9:37without anyone seeing anything. A short while afterwards one chap did manage to get something through the clouds, of a solar disc with a bite taken out of it and this caused everyone to rush out and start getting out tripods even though it was still alternatively drizzling/ down pouring. At one point, for a very brief second the clouds thinned and we did see where the Sun was and you could visibly see a chunk out of it, but within seconds it was gone again.

I got my camera out and kept it hidden under my waterproof “just in case”. As totality approached at 10:57am it became obvious we weren’t going to see anything. However it began to get visibly darker and an excitement spread across the field as we could see the Moon’s shadow rapidly approaching from the West. Then suddenly it was on us and although we couldn’t see anything but clouds above us we knew totality had occurred!

I can’t say I noticed the birds become quieter or anything as the observing field was just too noisy with people drinking sake and been and acting like Brits abroad. However I did notice a large butterfly still flying around over everyone’s heads.

Then all too soon it was over. The shadow moved over us heading North and suddenly everyone seemed to lose interest. By 11:20 everyone had packed up and was heading back to their cars and buses, even though 4^th contact wasn’t until 12:22pm. I didn’t have a choice – I too went back to the bus. I was disappointed that I didn’t actually see it but more disappointed in the so called “seasoned eclipse chasers” who paid no regard to anyone elses enjoyment and acted in a very loud and boorish manner.

Once back on the bus we took a tour around the island. First stop was at Ohko-no-taki Waterfall(?) It has the longest single drop of any waterfall in Yakushima at 88m. It was a truly amazing sight although a few too many tourists by my liking. Never mind I moved away from the throng and found a quiet spot jut to enjoy it. Yakushima really is a beautiful island.

Ohko-no-Taki Waterfall.

We continued our trip on what I can only describe as the narrowest most precarious road ever. For most of the island the mountains go practically right down to the sea so the road just hugs the mountain side alternatively rising and dropping. 

It was single track which meant if we encountered something coming the other way they invariably had to reverse along until they came to a passing place and we could then carefully manoeuvre around each other. The one exception was when we encountered what looked like a recovery lorry with orange lights. At first he tried to reverse but there was nowhere for him to go to. He also had a people carrier behind him. So we had to. There was a passing place 50 -100 yards behind us around a bend, but we also had 3 cars behind us. We reversed very slowly and carefully but by time we reached the passing place the cars were either in it already or parked up the ground in the wood at the side. The passenger out of the recovery ban took charge and guided them passed our bus and the re recovery van, then guided the people carrier around before then recovery van came passed us and we were all on our way.

On the West of the island we entered the National Park and no sooner had we done so than we started seeing Yaku monkeys and sika deer. We then stopped at a turtle nesting beach and although we didn’t see any turtles we did see where they laid their eggs and their tracks.

We continued back to Minshuken Yakoshima (our Ryoken https://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g1121600-d1857373-Reviews-Minshuku_Yakushima_Hostel-Yakushima_cho_Kumage_gun_Kagoshima_Prefecture_Kyushu.html

https://uk.hotels.com/ho645029440/minshuku-yakushima-hostel-yakushima-japan/#:WO:wo1

passing all of the wonderful scenery. Dinner was another wonderful traditional affair but without as much fish! Finished off with a couple of glassed of “Mountain Peach” wine/liqueur which was beautiful. Then off to bed for our last night on Yakushima.